Is the Grainline the same as selvage?
Straight grain, or lengthwise grain, are the threads going parallel to the selvedge of the fabric - the uncut edges that are bound so that they do not unravel. When fabric is cut at a shop, it is cut on the crossgrain. The crossgrain are the threads running the width of the fabric - from one selvedge to the other.
In sewing, the term grainline is used to determine the direction on the fabric a pattern should be cut. You can cut a pattern on the grainline, across it, or on the bias from it. The grainline is the direction parallel to the selvages (the edges) of the fabric. It goes vertically with the length of it.
The grainline helps guide you on where to place sewing patterns on woven fabrics. In sewing, grainline refers to the lengthwise yarns or straight grain of the fabric weave, also known as the warp threads. The lengthwise yarns or straight grain runs parallel to the fabric's selvedge.
It's marked by an arrow on the pattern piece, indicating the direction in which the pattern should be placed on the fabric. Lengthwise grain lies parallel to the selvages and has little or no stretch. Therefore, in most garments, lengthwise grain runs perpendicular to the ground.
The lengthwise yarns (sometimes called the warp) run parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. They are usually more tightly twisted, stronger, and more stable than the crosswise yarns. The crosswise yarns (sometimes called the woof, weft, or filling) are perpendicular, or at right angles to the selvage.
Fabric grain refers to the direction of the warp and weft threads used in weaving the fabric. Straight grain or lengthwise grain is in the direction of the warp threads, which run parallel to the selvages. These are the long threads of woven fabric that run the entire length of the loom, hence the name lengthwise.
Fabric selvage is the tightly woven edge that runs along each side of a piece of fabric's lengthwise grain, which is also called the fabric's warp. Selvage edges can be seen on the edges of quilting fabric that are at the top and bottom of a bolt of fabric. In Great Britain, the same term is often spelled "selvedge."
The fabric grainline of a pattern follows the straight grain or threads of the fabric weave. The straight grain is the lengthwise grain or the threads that run parallel with the selvage of the fabric.
If there are arrows at each end of the line, this means that it can be placed in either direction on the fabric. If there is only one arrow, this means that the pattern is placed in one direction only (for fabrics with naps).
Here are two things that might happen if you cut your fabric off grain: Your fabric will twist around your body. If it's off-grain, you're cutting closer to the bias, which increases stretch. In drastic cases, if your pattern pieces are not cut on grain, your fabric really will stretch and grow as you wear it.
Why is Grainline important?
Why Are They Important? Grainlines are the signposts we need to tell us the direction we need to place our pattern pieces on to the fabric. Remember I mentioned that the warp threads are the foundation of the fabric and the straight grain runs along these threads – well these threads are what the fabric hangs from.
The three named grains are straight grain, cross grain, and the bias grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment.
Selvages are the finished edges of the fabric. Fabrics are woven with threads going lengthwise and crosswise. This is called the grain of the fabric. Fabric has two selvages and measuring from selvage to selvage is referred to as “width of fabric”.
The lengthwise grain, called the warp, runs up and down while the crosswise grain, called the weft, is made from threads woven over and under the lengthwise grain from side to side. As the fabric is woven, the selvedge is created by the weft threads turning as they are being woven in the opposite direction.
The grainline almost always runs parallel to the selvedge of the fabric (the manufacturer's logo or blank line along the edges, explained more in my video), and the stretch usually runs the other direction. The grainline is easy to find on wovens, which tend to be more stable and fold easily.
Woven fabrics have a selvage edge that runs lengthwise along both sides. Pattern pieces drafted for woven fabrics will have a line with an arrow at both ends called the grainline. This line should run parallel to the selvages. Most often, the fabric you receive will not have an even crosswise cut.
Before you start cutting into your fabric, trim off the selvages first. You want to cut about 1-2″ from the edge so you can see the selvage and a piece of its pretty fabric. This will make any selvage-centric project, like a strippy selvage block, more colorful.
If you look at the top and bottom finished edge of the fabric (this is called the selvage) you'll notice tiny holes. (These holes are caused by the pins holding the fabric when it's created in the textile factories.) If you look at the holes and the holes appear neat and smooth, that's the right side.
Grain direction is very important and makes a huge difference as to how the paper will react when attempting to fold, score and bind it. Therefore, knowing the grain direction and how it will affect the layout of a project makes a big difference in the quality of the finished piece.
The selvage edges of fabric are sometimes printed, as in this example, and sometimes not as in most batiks. Nevertheless, you should cut them off and not use them in your patchwork piecing. They don't always press flat, and they often pucker and tighten when washed, meaning what they are sewn to doesn't lay flat.
Can I use the selvage as a hem?
SUBSTITUTE SELVAGE FOR HEM TAPE
Cut an organza selvage strip 1⁄4 inch beyond the selvage's inner fabric edge and pin the strip to the right side of the hem, aligning the raw edges. Sew it in place with a 1⁄4-inch-wide seam allowance.
The selvage line is generally always straight. Sometimes you will see it waver just a bit but it pretty much gives you a straight line. So, cut off the line of selvage in a straight line…. and you have your straight edge of fabric to work from.
Your fabric grain can be off a little bit and it won't affect your project. But if it's off by too much, your designs won't line up when you're trying to match panels and your seams can bunch or stretch because they're actually being sewn too close to the bias.
Ensure you have the grain running in the right direction according to your pattern pieces. The straight grain of a fabric runs parallel to the selvage. The further you move 'off grain' the more the fabric can stretch and distort.
Technically, the term grain only refers to woven fabric; the term direction is frequently used with knit fabrics. The lengthwise yarns (sometimes called the warp) run parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. They are usually more tightly twisted, stronger, and more stable than the crosswise yarns.
Here are two things that might happen if you cut your fabric off grain: Your fabric will twist around your body. If it's off-grain, you're cutting closer to the bias, which increases stretch. In drastic cases, if your pattern pieces are not cut on grain, your fabric really will stretch and grow as you wear it.