What is grain direction in fabric?
Fabric grain refers to the direction of the warp and weft threads used in weaving the fabric. Straight grain or lengthwise grain is in the direction of the warp threads, which run parallel to the selvages. These are the long threads of woven fabric that run the entire length of the loom, hence the name lengthwise.
Cutting fabric on grain is important because it will ensure that our garment stretches out and wears evenly. It keeps the fabric's threads happy and level. You see, each pieces of fabric is made of thousands of threads. Some go parallel to the ground and some perpendicular.
Woven fabrics have a selvage edge that runs lengthwise along both sides. Pattern pieces drafted for woven fabrics will have a line with an arrow at both ends called the grainline. This line should run parallel to the selvages.
Grain Direction
You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain so you should plane the other way, with the grain.
Wood grain is the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers or the pattern resulting from such an arrangement.
- Straight grain. The straight grain runs parallel to the fabric selvedge meaning the grainline runs up and down a garment. ...
- Cross grain. The cross grain runs perpendicular to the selvedge meaning the garment grainline will run around the body. ...
- Bias grain.
Definition of straight grain
: grain in wood characterized by wood fibers that run parallel to the long axis of the piece also : a graining (as of leather) in which the distinctive elements run in straight lines.
There are three common types of grain lines. These include lengthwise, crosswise, and bias fabric grains. Lengthwise fabric grains, also known as the fabric's “warp”, are grain lines that run along the length of the material, and parallel to the selvage of the material.
Here are two things that might happen if you cut your fabric off grain: Your fabric will twist around your body. If it's off-grain, you're cutting closer to the bias, which increases stretch. In drastic cases, if your pattern pieces are not cut on grain, your fabric really will stretch and grow as you wear it.
Fold your fabric in half, matching the selvages. Pick up your fabric and hold it horizontally, with the selvages on top. Line up the selvages and wiggle the fabric around until it is on grain. Move one selvage up and down and back and forth until you notice that there is a single fold along your fabric.
How do you mark a Grainline on a pattern?
Grain lines
Grain linee are typically placed parallel to the selvedge edge of the fabric. This example piece is an under collar, so the grain line is diagonal to the center back seam, indicating that the pattern piece is cut on the bias.
Wood is strongest in the direction parallel to grain. Because of this, the strength and stiffness properties of wood structural panels are greater in the direction parallel to the strength axis than perpendicular to it (see Figure 1).

- Barley.
- Brown rice.
- Buckwheat.
- Bulgur (cracked wheat)
- Millet.
- Oatmeal.
- Popcorn.
- Whole-wheat bread, pasta or crackers.
The terms grain line or grainline are often used interchangeably. When fashion designers and pattern makers talk about grain lines they are referring to the way that a pattern is cut out when it is laid out on a piece of fabric.
Grain variation is a naturally occurring property of wood. When a tree is sliced into boards, the growth rings of the tree become visible on the boards. These naturally occurring lines are proportionally related to the environmental effects the tree endured during its growth.
Open-grained and close-grained wood refers to the size of the pores; woods with large visible pores are 'open-grain', and those with pores too small to see clearly are 'closed-grain'. When the wood's sawn, large pores can split and this will decide whether timber needs a filler to achieve a smoother finish.
The three named grains are straight grain, cross grain, and the bias grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment.
- Lengthwise grain/straight grain.
- Crosswise grain.
- Bias grain.
Fabrics that are cut with edges parallel to either the crosswise or lengthwise straight grain are less likely to stretch out of shape than pieces with edges cut along the stretchy bias.
In temperate areas—those with warm summers and cold winters—wheat is the most common grain. Wheat fields are common in the Great Plains of the United States and Canada, for instance. Corn, which is native to the Americas, is now grown in many temperate areas throughout the world.
What are 7 other types of grains?
There are a number of different types of grains found within the true cereal grains which are from the botanical family 'Poaceae' including wheat, oats, rice, corn (maize), barley, sorghum, rye, and millet.
Grain is a term that refers to the direction of threads in a woven fabric. A length of fabric has two edges that look finished; these edges are called selvage. The main threads in a woven fabric run parallel with the selvage, these main threads are called the warp threads.
Primarily, nap is the raised (fuzzy) surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet or moleskin. Nap can refer additionally to other surfaces that look like the surface of a napped cloth, such as the surface of a felt or beaver hat.
A selvage is the tightly woven edge of a fabric. It prevents the side edges of the fabric from raveling or fraying. Don't use the selvage in your project! The selvage, because it's densely woven, is sturdier than the rest of the fabric, so it can be more difficult to sew through.
In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp (the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric), and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row.
Selvage is the self-finished edge of the fabric and often has the defining information about the fabric printed along the edge.
On patterns, the grain line (or grainline) is usually marked with a line with arrows on it, shown below in red. When cutting out, the pattern will be laid with the grain line (or grainline) parallel to the selvedge. Further Reading: Learn more about Grain Lines»
Satin is a weave known for its luxurious, shiny, smooth finish. It is constructed using four or more warp threads overlapping a weft thread or visa versa. It is called Sateen if made with the cotton fibre. Satinised chiffon is a woven fabric with a satin finish.
TEXTURE: Is the surface appearance of fabric. Texture is the one element you can see and feel. Texture is found in the thickness and appearance of the fabric. Words that describe texture are: Loopy, fuzzy, furry, soft, shiny, dull, bulky, rough, crisp, smooth, sheer,etc.
With growing demands both in quality as well as properties finishing techniques can be divided into three different parts: Temporary Finish. Semi-durable Finish. Permanent Finish.
What is meant by selvage?
Definition of selvage
1a : the edge on either side of a woven or flat-knitted fabric so finished as to prevent raveling specifically : a narrow border often of different or heavier threads than the fabric and sometimes in a different weave. b : an edge (as of fabric or paper) meant to be cut off and discarded.
A selvage's main purpose is to prevent unraveling or fraying, which makes a fabric stable and secure. Some fabrics come with frayed edges for aesthetic purposes. A selvage's self-finished edge makes sure that this fraying won't come undone and affect or damage the rest of your fabric.
That's your straight grain on a knit. The tricky thing with knits is the direction of the greatest stretch. Knits often have the most stretch on the crossgrain, so you can line up your pattern pieces on the grainline, and then the fabric will stretch around your body.
At the fabric store, the length of the fabric (in yards) is measured along the selvage edge and cut perpendicular to it (cut edge). It is incorrect to cut a fabric piece along the selvage edges as this edge should remain intact and is an essential tool for aligning your sewing patterns in the sewing process correctly.
Lengthwise Grain (warp threads) The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvages. It's the strongest grain in your fabric and has very little stretch. This is how your yardage comes off the bolt.